A Baroque Revival in Modern Couture: Schiaparelli SS 2025

As the curtains rose on the Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week, it was clear that Daniel Roseberry was not holding back. Set against the backdrop of the ornate Petit Palais, the collection unfolded like a modern fairy tale drenched in opulence and whimsy. Titled "Icarus," it was an extravagant exploration of historical fashion elements fused with modern techniques.

Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.

“ I’m so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity: Can’t the new also be worked, be baroque, be extravagant? Has our fixation on what looks or feels modern become a limitation? Has it cost us our imagination? "

To answer this question, he presents a luxurious fusion of modern simplicity and classic glamour. Drawing inspiration from antique French ribbons from the 1920s and 1930s, the collection features thirty three looks in subtle hues like butter, burnt saffron, mink, toast, and faded peacock green. Couture gowns and corsets showcase traditional elegance through modern silhouettes and materials, including silk georgette, French corset toile, ultrasuede, and satin, embellished with details such as smoked quartz bugle droplets and resin rosettes.

Someone once said that you can tell if a designer truly loves women by looking at their creations. This sentiment resonates profoundly - his affection for the grace and elegance that define femininity is clearly visible through the coquette patterns. Roseberry took inspiration from great couturiers of the past: Worth to Madame Gres Saint Laurent, Alaia and of course Schiaparelli.

This is not just a presentation of fashion—it's a compelling argument for the richness that complexity brings to modern design, capturing the imagination that many thought was lost. Each piece is a challenge to the conventions of modernity, proving that extravagance and detailed craftsmanship can indeed define the contemporary.